Hike #13 - Bruce trail Toronto section 0-19.6

total hiked: 245.1
total time: 49:00

 A tough Friday that I barely finished before sunset. The bike back was as long as the hike was since the trail followed a straight line north, so I started off a little tired. The official start is under the 401 on Appleby, which is a dumb place to put it since there is no parking, and in this case was completely closed off and under construction anyway! So I started from the Hilton Falls parking lot, which is the same distance and an actual place to park.

Its definitely spring now, the Trilliums are out, the ground is green, and the trees are all starting to bud. Unfortunately the trees do not provide much shade yet, but its starting to feel like they are alive again.

The trail felt less used in some sections along here, its a pretty long and straight part with no options for loops so the only people that would use it probably are doing this. There was a big bridge across the quarry about halfway in though

The trail gets pretty deep in the woods after crossing highway 25, and its a lot of swampy areas. I had to detour in a few places and ended up on a side trail that didn't make sense on my map (likely because mine are a few years old). They tend to reroute trails to let an area regenerate and I think that's where I was. I found my way to a 'road' that ran through the woods. I say road, but you would have a hard time with anything but an ATV through it. But it was on my map and gave me some reference. I eventually found my way out and back on the trail through farmers fields

I ended the day and went back to get my bike before dark, quite tired. 20km hike with a 20km ride after work might be pushing it and I should save those for weekends.

Hike #12 - Bruce trail Iroquoia section 86.8-102.3

total hiked: 225.5
total time: 45:30


Starting at the bottom of Mt. Nemo there is a steep and rocky climb to get you up the escarpment, but it is well worth it at the top. This is the only climbing for a while and the top has some great views of Milton and farmland around. Can even see the Velodrome here!

Leaving the park there is a long stretch of road to get you North to more trails near Britannia. Its at least a quiet road as most of the traffic stays on the major road of Guelph line and Appleby.

There is a really nice set 4-5km of trail near Twiss road that felt like a perfect example of what trails in Ontario are like. Large oak trees, a few ponds, lots of small birds and squirrels, and even a fat ground hog ran by me. Its not a loop trail and there were no lookouts, but for some reason stood out to me as my favourite trail so far.

Another trip out and I should be done with the Iroquoia section, and have hit 1/4 of the entire Bruce trail done. Only 650km to go...

Hike #11 - Bruce trail peninsula section 125.3-167.4

total hiked: 210
total time: 43:00


It looks like I skipped to the end, but I usually do this hike a couple of times a year anyway, and this weekend was a good time to do it. A little cold, but no bugs and not a lot of people make for a good time of year to visit the northern Bruce. I did this section backwards for a change, but its probably easier to do the other direction normally.

Starting with lunch in Tobermory, this side of the trail feels more official as the start of the Bruce trail. The visitor center is here and a big lookout tower beside it

It then follows some snowmobile trails south. Unfortunately there is a section that has recently be closed off, and you end up on highway 6 for about 4km. Its not a fun way to start a hike, and if you don't care about sticking to every km of the trail, you might as well skip this and start/end your hike at Little Cove.

The trail gets tough from here on. My pace was about half what I usually do, and its a constant up and over rocks and walls. There is rarely a flat wide trail and there are few spots to grab water from the bay.

You go through the top of Cypress park, and right through the famous Grotto and Indian cove. I didn't bother to stop as I was running out of daylight and frankly there are enough pictures of these places. They are great if you have never been, but otherwise they are a tourist trap. They have made the trails from the parking lot even easier so I find even more people are out at these spots now.

Another hour and the stairs to Storm Haven backcountry sites. There are about 8 platforms here that you can reserve, as well as a compost toilet. I was getting in just as the sun set, and enjoyed a perfect view for dinner.

I was spent. It was only 20km but with my pack and the terrain it felt more like 40. I was in bed shortly after to wake up with sunrise.

The hike from Storm to High dump is notoriously difficult as well. It took me nearly 4 hours to cover the 9km. The guide says its the hardest part of the Bruce trail and rightfully so, there are a lot of rock walls to get over and can be difficult when they are wet. The edges of the rocks get very smooth and 'greasy' from the hundreds of hikers using them so the trail is actually getting harder over time.

High dump down Crane lake is a nice break. Its another snowmobile trail, so its flat and wide, and it goes by quick. Then the road out of Crane lake is nearly a trail itself, its single lane track that floods in the spring (like now!). I ended my day here and happily took my pack and wet shoes off.

Hike #10 - Bruce trail Iroquoia section 70.8-86.8

total hiked: 167.9
total time: 32:00


An evening hike from where I left off in Waterdown (starting with some apple fritters of course), to Mt. Nemo. Its a very flat section, and I had a pretty brisk pace.

There is probably the worst road crossing of the entire Bruce trail however over Dundas. This is a 4 lane highway, very busy, and the east goes down a hill so you cannot see far.

On the other side I made another friend. His name is Trailcat

The last section up to the Mt. Nemo access is all road, about 5km along 1 side rd, and Walker. This part is scary as you are walking with zero shoulder, and cars are flying over blind hills at about 80kmh. If there was any part of the entire trail to skip so far, this would be it. Absolutely would not recommend to a group or family to walk these roads, outside of maybe 7am on a Sunday.

Anyway, it left me feeling like a need to get away from roads this weekend, and I know exactly where to go.

Hike #9 - Iroquoia section 15.6-51.6

total hiked: 151.9
total time: 29:20



This was a long day. With the reroutes it was 38km and 8 hours of hiking. This section was almost all Hamilton and Ancaster, finishing just near Dundas.

Starting around 8am was cold, but quiet enough until I got more into the city. The Bruce Trail map talks about how even though you are in the middle of the city you would hardly know it. I'm not quite sold, as even though you are on a trail or path, you are always in ear shot of the highways and the path is mostly asphalt, especially near downtown. Add to that all the garbage (granted it was trail clean up day) that a city trail gets, it is a big contrast from the isolated provincial parks.

The trail gets better as it heads towards the 403 and over Ancaster. A lot of people in this section as its a nice wide flat path, lots of kids and strollers out on a Sunday

Eventually it leads down to some of the falls in Ancaster. Tiffany falls is a side trail out of the way, but the main trail goes right past Sherman Falls under the old mill

It wasn't even that hot out, but after 30km I was definitely soaking my feet here for a few minutes.

After Ancaster it went through the main Dundas Valley Conservation area, which has a lot of large loops to get lost in. There is a recent reroute that adds another 2km through the park, but its easy walking.

I ended the day close to 6pm and 54000 steps later. I was glad I pushed a long day as I wanted to see what it was like. Granted I didn't have a lot of weight on my back and the trails were easy, but I would like to do some backpacking trips that require 20mile days. Shaving a day or two off of a week long trip can save a lot in the amount of food you have to carry, and time off work.

Hike #8 - Iroquoia section 57.4-70.8
total hiked: 115.9
total time: 21:20


A little out of order on the hike still, picking up from the side trail to Webster's falls. The trail heads up the escarpment with some great views of Hamilton and you can even start to see the sky bridge in the distance. The trail runs though the botanical gardens for the most part and avoids roads except for crossings

 

After crossing the tracks I walked the last few KM along the river up to Waterdown. Lots of people out on a Friday night and it was an easy walk along the river to the falls at the parking lot.

I finished the day in Waterdown with some apple turnovers at the Brown Dog/Copper Kettle Cafe. The way all hikes should end!

Hike #7 - Iroquoia section 0-15.6
total hiked: 102.5
total time: 18:50

The start of the Iroquoia section is fantastic. An easy climb up to the top of the escarpment to overlook Grimsby reminded me of a trail through the mountains. Tall trees and a path made out of rocks along a small river. The top had some designated look out platforms and even a tower built to watch the spring hawk migration which was full of people today.

Sadly the trail then is on Ridge road for like 3km. It was quiet for traffic but its never fun walking on the shoulder of a road when you are out for a hike.

I made some friends at least

After the road section the trail follows about halfway up the escarpment the rest of the way. This is the best way to do it as everyone wants to build on the top and bottom of the ridge, but the trail goes through the middle so it was 10km of fully secluded trail. I didn't see a house or building nearly the entire time and this is in Hamilton limits at this point.

So far Iroquoia section has delivered nicely. I ended my day in Stoney Creek suburbs and had a windy ride back to the car.

Hike #6 - Iroquoia section 51.6-57.4
total hiked:86.9
total time: 15:50


A beautiful day brought a lot of people to the trails, including my mom! We wanted to do a spring hike and the day was perfect for it. We did part of the Bruce through Dundas, with the side trail up to Webster falls where we left a 2nd car.

From Governors road its a nice easy hike through the woods. Unfortunately the trail does a good 2.5km on the streets instead of passing through the falls. I don't get it, as there clearly was a trail over the tracks that would connect up to Webster falls and meet back on the trail where the loop starts. Perhaps crossing the tracks is the concern since the way we took went under them? Either way, its a shame they don't take advantage of it somehow, as the falls end up 5km out of the way off the trail and are a must see detour.

In any case, spring run off means great waterfalls!

 

  

Hike #5 - Niagara section 68.1-81.1
total hiked:81.1
total time: 14:30


A quick run through the last of the Niagara section. Some pretty technical rocky sections closer to Grimsby, but its a nice change of pace.

Coming into Grimsby there seems to be a reroute compared to my maps (rev 26). Instead of keeping in the woods, the trail literally cuts up through someone's backyard and onto the road. After a while the white markers disappear and I think I missed a drop in, but even on my ride back I took the same way and didn't see anything. Then all of the sudden I see a blaze into the last KM of woods on mountain rd. Its fine, just don't be discouraged as long as you are going the right direction.

Spring time

Its good getting a section done, but daunting as its not even 10% of the trail at this point. I will be glad to get done with QEW soon, not sure how people put up with that everyday.

Hike #4 - Niagara section 56.2-68.1
total hiked: 68.1
total time: 12:20


A quick weekday hike, from Balls' to Beams'. Its a good section, almost all trail with lots of rocky sections to negotiate. From the start there was one last look at the falls and into the woods. It follows the top of the escarpment with some good views of the water, and its actually the first time you can even really see Lake Ontario. It was clear enough to even see the Toronto skyline.

This area has really only 2 things you will see, one after another. Trail, and vineyards. Over and over.

Halfway through I came across this sign, marking the first blaze of the trail in 1962

She is still young. On a side note, I was just reading about a hiker named Doug Sloan, who last year finished his 50th end-to-end hike of the bruce trail, totaling over 40,000km of this trail.


The trail follows under the escarpment for a few km, and eventually there is a steep climb to bring you back to the top. You walk along the top of cave springs, but I couldn't help by take a small detour down into the rocks. It looked like a trail, and seemed to follow the same direction, so why not.

The cave spring

The trail quickly disappeared and I was into the bush for a bit, walking along the wall. I decided to try and find a place to climb up instead of turn around. There was a massive overhang and lots of rocks than had come down. I eventually found a place I could climb out out of and found the bruce again.

I finished shortly after and in Kinsmen park and was greeted by a large deer. My ride back to the car I realized I look like like a hiker, and probably more like a working from vineyards covered in mud.

Hike #3 - Niagara section 34.6-56.2
total hiked: 56.2
total time: 10:20


Sunday was cold. Actually a record cold for this date. There was also a lot of snow in the forecast so I was out at sunrise to stay ahead of it. I decided to just walk this section so I could dress warm, not having to worry about sweating from a run.

Starting from DeCew, the trail dips into Short Hills provincial park. Mostly flat with open meadows, I saw lots deer and even the odd person walking their dog. Or perhaps its the dog walking the person, since so far Ive only seen people with dogs on the trail.

The first of many falls was at Terrace creek, where you could climb down and under them easily if you wanted

You also pass Swayze falls on your way out of the park. There is then trail behind a bunch of farms with noisy turkeys, and eventually you are lead into Rockway park. Quiet here as usual, the park is smaller with a few loop trails. My map shows a 1/2km of road but I think its been updated as it was just a road crossing.

The bridge in Rockway

I had a little rest on the bridge and started to fall asleep listening to the water pass under me. I couldn't help but wonder what someone passing by would think as they would have to walk over me to get by. Needless to say I don't do well when I wake up this early and starbucks wasn't open.

The trail heads to Louth Park, and passes a gun range at some point. You can't miss it, there are about 90 signs telling you to stay on the trail. I wonder if there was an incident, as it was excessive. After Louth is a long and boring 2km of road on the way to Ball's Falls. I can't believe there wasn't a way around this, but I guess if you want to see more vineyards this is your chance...

Entering Ball's Falls park from glen road means walking up the river, which at this time of year was at full power. Reminded me of the rivers in the mountains.

After a lot of stairs, you are in the main park. The lower falls are the more impressive, at 2/3rd the height of Niagara. Spring is the time to see them, they are much bigger with the run off. A great finale to a long cold day of waterfalls.

A long hilly ride back to the car and I was spent.

Hike #2 - Niagara section 22.9-34.6
total hiked: 34.6km
total time: 5:35


A shorter hike today as I had a smaller window on a Friday, but wanted to get done with St. Catherine's. From where I left off in Merrit park, it went down a very busy road for the next bit with overpasses and malls. I know Im only 5% done but this must be the worst section of the entire trail.

2km later its finally in the woods up the escarpment again. I managed to jog most of the day until it got muddy again, which it did. The trail passes through Brock University's campus and its pretty easy to get lost around here. Lots of trails and paths and a lot of the white blazes are fading pretty bad on a few spots. Basically if you don't see a blaze for 200m, you are probably going the wrong way.

After the university the trail loops around Lake Moodie. There is an easy 5km you could skip with a shortcut here, but I did the entire loop and glad I did as it was the only decent trail of the day.

 

Marshes outside Brock

The lake was pretty quiet as its on the edge of the city, and connects to the large Lake Gibson. The trail follows a raised gravel path around the west bank to the dam.

Brock's library tower on the other side

I finished the hike at the Morningstar Mill at Decew falls with a short bike ride back to the car along the city's crappy roads. Keeping the distance at 12km has me feeling much fresher the next day, but its a pain to drive all the way out there for a shorter coverage. On the plus side I am done with the area and the next and only real built up area should be Hamilton.

Hike #1 - Niagara section 0 - 22.9km
total hiked: 22.9km
total time: 3:45


Hiking alone means either out-and-back, or finding a way back to the car. I have zero interest in out-and-back, so I first locked up my mountain bike with flat pedals at the end of my hike, which I used to get back to the start.

Starting from Queenston park, there is a nice cairn built to mark mile 0 however its a pretty anticlimactic start otherwise. I walked and jogged through mostly flat trail for the first 5km until I was drenched in sweat. It was a few degrees and the sun was out, and I got warm fast. Winter coat went into my pack (more on that later), and I carried on with a light jog for the next hour.

Fireman's park had some people walking their dogs, otherwise no one was out. It got muddy fast after this, some really nasty sections that are probably worse in the spring like this, but I imagine are muddy year round based on their condition. Its funny how you avoid the mud until your shoes are dirty, and then it doesn't matter.

After the QEW is the 'screaming tunnel'. I suppose its haunted or something.

so scary

Woodend park is next which is a nice hike. Its high up and dry with some well maintained side trails. Its close enough to St Catherines at this point that it probably sees a lot of people in the summer

Shortly after it cuts through a golf course, which was another very muddy part that was slow going. I know I said I didn't want to take short cuts, but I wish I had taken the paved path that was 20 feet beside me as I made my way through what was more creek than trail. Oh well its hiking after all.


It was about this time it started to snow. A lot. By the time I made it to the old canal, it was white out. The golf course went from green to white, and I couldn't keep my eyes open without sunglasses on from the snow blowing. REALLY glad I kept that winter jacket with me.

whats left of the old canal

There is a long and busy road section across the main Welland canal, and it was snowing so bad I couldn't even see the locks. I was pretty soaked as I got back into trails with about 5km to go, and relentlessly the sun came out and snow stopped.

Making it back to where I had the bike hidden, I had a quick lunch, saw that the snow was supposed to start again soon and quickly jumped on the bike. Riding back to the car and it started snowing bad again in the last 2km, and the drive back home was particularly nasty. I thought it was April but clearly my calendar is broken.


Lessons learned:

-Always keep the maps in the plastic case it came in. Map 1 and 2 are ruined from the snow.
-as tempting as it is, running downhill is never worth it
-need to layer clothing better. Also spare pants in the car.
-snow is the same as rain when its warm out (wet)

5 years later, time for another journal. Its nice to be able to look back, I figured I would write this down, and this seemed like a good a place as any. Also since Im still playing with routers, and its still cold, the name is fitting.



The goal is to completely hike the Bruce trail from Niagara to Tobermory by the end of the year. 885 km total. I do not plan to take any shortcuts, meaning if there is a side trail that saves me a couple of KM I will not take it, and take the white blazes always. I also plan to keep do the trail as 'in order' as possible, with the odd exception for hiking with others.

Its already April, and the peninsula can get rough in the winter. Id like to do Wiarton to Tobermory, the hardest and most remote part of the trail, in one shot. 165km in probably 5 or 6 days. This means getting to Wiarton by the end of September, for a week long hike in October to finish the trail. It may be a crunch to fit it in, but here is the attempt!

Here is hoping for more of this weather!