Last day

It's my last day of work here with a flight out tomorrow afternoon.  I guess there is mixed feelings about leaving, but its mostly good.  I really feel I have had enough up here and really cannot wait to get back south.  I guess since it was always a temporary stay up here and I never got to settle in or make a permanent home its harder to enjoy it here, and maybe if I moved here it would be different, but the North is hard to live in regardless.

I won't go into the negative on here, as they are mostly obvious, but here are some of the things to miss:

-The quiet.  Its always so quiet up here, especially at night.  Basically no cars on the road after 7pm.
-The people.  I have never seen a happier or friendlier group of people in my life, especially considering the conditions.
-The culture.  You see it more in the communities, but there is a lot of old thule culture still alive.  A lot of people only speak Inuktitut still, and some of the elders in town were actually born in iglus.
-The money.  Lets be honest, anyone can make a lot up here.  Working for the GN you get $15k a year just as living allowance on top of whatever you make.  Granted costs are higher, but wages are even higher.
-The cold.  No, I won't miss that.



It's been a great experience and I am very happy I did it.  There were ups and downs but thats just part of the adventure.  I'm going to take one last walk around town tomorrow and take some last pictures.

Coming up on the end of my tour here, have a flight booked out next week.  A few things left to do but nothing too exciting.  We were going to try and go dog sledding this weekend but theres just not enough time.  I also don't think there is enough snow/ice to go anyway.

We had quite a few cold days a while back, down to about -40 windchill.  On the walk home I had ice building up on my eye lashes.  Had to make sure I didn't close my eyes or they would freeze shut.

Almost back...

Our flight was a few hours late leaving Arviat this morning.  The 2nd engine wouldn't start and after a few checks they decided to use a hair dryer to thaw it out.  After a few mins they were able to fire it up and we were off.  Unfortunately it wasn't a smooth flight though as the landing gear was frozen and wouldn't go up.  So they weren't able to continue on and we are stuck in Rankin Inlet for the night.

Still in Arviat

Somehow the weather is actually worse than it was on Monday.  Everytime I look out the window its just white.  No lights, buildings, posts, just white.

I managed to make it into the office for a bit this morning, but they closed it down at 11 and I had to come back to the hotel.  When I got back the staff here was surprised to see me, as they had just seen a polar bear outside the hotel.  They told me they were worried about me and I wasn't allowed back outside haha. 

So I am stuck in the hotel again, hopefully flying out tomorrow.  Storm is supposed to pass in the morning and I may even get back to Iqaluit.


Here are a few pictures that Frank who is with me took.

Weather...

A bit of a storm has blown in here.  Last night it got up to about 70km/h winds and blew snow pretty well all night.  It calmed down this morning but since this afternoon it has been getting worse and worse to the point you can't see a few feet in front of you.  Arviat is extremely flat so even in town the winds are just as strong as anywhere.  Wind gusts are well over 80km/h right now and I can't even see the street lights out side my window.

The smart thing is to stay inside.  Something I didn't do today... :D

I had to pick up some keys about 200m outside of town.  About halfway there I couldn't see buildings anywhere, and saw nothing but a bit of the road and the sun.  I managed to walk right past the shop I was supposed to go to and ended up down the wrong road.  Someone offered to drive me back but it required that I help push/dig them out first. 

Later Frank and I went to the college to do some work, and stayed until it was nearly dark.  The college is next to the hotel with a small opening between, maybe 40 feet building to building.  In between them I couldn't see either building anymore.  Its like walking around with your eyes closed and ears plugged, you just walk in the direction you think you need to go.  Frank had it worse, he had a good block to walk back to his place.  Thankfully he knows the town well.  I wouldn't have made it.

Got back to the hotel and the power is out.  Oh, and we are low on water and the water truck has no plans to come today or tomorrow. 


Anyway, I don't want to worry anyone, Im alive and warm and won't be going anywhere until it calms down.  That said, I now understand those stories you hear of people getting lost 10 feet outside their door.

Polar bears in Arviat

No pictures, again since my camera wasn't with me, but last night I saw 5 polar bears!  After I landed one of the guys here took me over to the dump where the bears have been "dining".  Massive things, all full grown, and we were probably less than 20 feet away.  They didn't seem to care we were there, infact probably appreciated us lighting up the garbage for them.  I guess they come through every year at this time up from Churchill, and hang around until the water freezes before going out to hunt seal all winter. 

Pretty uneventful otherwise here.  The winds are too high for the new dish to go up, and there is a storm rolling in that will prevent it tomorrow too.  As much as I love sitting in a hotel watching TV, I may just go back to Iqaluit. 

Back to Arviat

Heading back to Arviat tonight for likely my last trip outside of Iqaluit.  Its a quick cutover but with flights I'll likely be there until wednesday.

The temperature is ungodly here.  Its sitting around -28 with a -41 windchill according to the airport, and its only November.  Sad part is, this would be warmer than average if this were February.  The average low for Feb is -32.  Thats just the average, it can very well get down to -40s with -60 windchills.  I understand its a "dry cold" and you just hide indoors but its still mental. 

Well I am back up north until Christmas.  This is a short stint of only 4 weeks, so in the time it takes for zombies to take over (28 days) I will be back again.  Will fly by I am sure.

I realized something disturbing as I walked into my place yesterday.  Even though I call Guelph ‘home’, I have only spent 3 weeks in my place in Guelph in the last 6 months, and 16 weeks in my place in Iqaluit.  It was more familiar walking into my place here than down south.

Cold here, much colder than it has ever been.  -25 winds and the sun sets around 2:30.  Lovely times.  

Flights

If there is one thing I can't stand about Canada, is how much our domestic flights cost.  I can fly round trip between Buffulo and Orlando three times for the price it costs to fly from Iqaluit to Kitchener one way.  Heck, I can fly round trip to Japan for nearly the price a round trip between Ottawa and Kitchener costs. 

Arctic Bay

I was originally set to goto Arctic Bay a few weeks ago but was busy with other things here in Iqaluit, but I thought I would share some pictures from one of our techs who did go up.  Pics are curtosy of Frank Reardon and turned out great.  Can't wait to see what he posts from Resolute/Grise.

Last night on the way home I nearly hit a fox with my truck as I was staring at the northern lights.  Driving here is boring, as most roads are 30k/h, and apart from 'rush hour', not many people are out.


Here are a few pictures from Igloolik a friend sent me since I didn't have my camera with me. 

The weather can change so fast here.  We went from +4 yesterday (which was something to celebrate), to a windchill of -15 today.  Almost time for the parka. 

I'm starting to miss fresh vegetables more and more these days.  I filled a bowl of fresh veggies at lunch the other day and everything just tasted...old.  I guess since it is picked in Chile, put on a truck to the nearest port, put on a boat to our coast, put on a truck and driven to Montreal, sits in a warehouse before being loaded on a plane, then sits here for a week here before its sold, I can't expect much.  'Fresh' is an objective term when it comes to produce up here.


Another trip home soon.  Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana 

Hall Beach

After yesterday I felt like I was really getting into the culture up here, feeling like “oh yeah, I’m bad ass, I could hack it up here”

Then today on the way to the school I stopped by an interesting scene.  A walrus was harpooned this morning on the beach just outside my hotel.  They were just pulling it up onto the shore as I came by, and I just had to stop and watch. 

It was amazing and slightly disturbing to watch.  Being a pampered southerner I obviously do not see animals turned into meat too often, so it was a little hard to watch at first.  But something about the way they do it, where 5 or 6 guys just work so systematically and efficiently was so impressive.  They use hooks to pull the internals out, while one guy went right for the penis and carved out the bone from it (a good 3 feet long!).  Another guy went to removing the head, which he placed next to me and asked “are you from green peace?”  I laughed and said no, just watching.  The others cut the other various pieces which all looked like red and grey blocks of goo to me, but they seemed to know exactly where and how to cut, all the while not getting a drop of blood on themselves.  

As steam rose from the open walrus in front of me I realized I have a ways to go still. 

Igloolik

I’m in Hall Beach now after spending 3 nights in Igloolik.  What an amazing trip it was, I really enjoyed it there.  The hotel was pretty standard but the staff was great, and everyone in town was friendly and great to talk with. 

On my second day there I was invited out for dinner by some teachers and just got to hang out and socialize all night.  I’ve been in Iqaluit for 3 months and have yet to be invited anywhere other than wing night at the legion, so it was nice to go out.  It’s just something you don’t get elsewhere. 

The town is just as isolated as anywhere else, but seemed to be doing well.  Tonight there was a concert in town with over 10 bands playing, one of which I heard plays Tragically Hip songs in Inuktitut.  God I wish I could have seen that!

But I have had to move on to the next stop before back to Iqaluit.  I had a later flight and was worried about missing dinner here so I got pizza to go from what was claimed as “the best pizza north of the Arctic Circle”.  Have to say, they are probably right.  Felt a little stupid with a pizza on my lap on the plane, but it was worth it.

Oh, I also brought back a few lbs of Beluga whale (Muktuk).  Had a piece before I left, and it’s actually pretty good.  More fish tasting than cow (which I thought due to the fact a whale is closer related to cows than fish).  Going to try making some Beluga sushi and maybe some whale soup.  

No pictures unfortunately, forgot the camera at home.  Would have had a cool shot of 3 walrus heads drying in the snow.

Last week we had a full satellite outage, which caused all cell phones, internet, bank machines/debit/ and long distance calling to go down for a full day.  All planes were also grounded.  Pretty scary that something like that can happen, as our lives depend on these things.  I can go a day without email, but if I can't buy food, then I am worried.  Thankfully places were taking credit cards on the 'honour system'.  Could you imagine something like that happening for even an hour in downtown Toronto?  I imagine riots would break out.


On Tuesday I fly out to Igloolik for a few days.  It will be my first time above the arctic circle.  It is also a very traditional community, so I am hoping I will get to try a few new things.


Happy Thanksgiving.  Uncle Ben's fried rice for me tonight!

Iqaluit Humane Society

The only Humane Society/Shelter in Nunavut shut down a couple of months ago due to lack of funding.  It is in no way government funded, so it relies on donations, which obviously there was not enough of.

There isn't even a single vet up here.  If you want shots for your dog you have to fly it to Ottawa.  If they put a dog down (which is often now that there is no shelter), they take it to the dump and shoot it.


Right now they are trying to raise money through an insurance company's competition that gives money to the causes with the most votes.  Please take a minute to vote, you can go through facebook or create a quick account.  You can vote once a day for the next 2 weeks.  Its free, and might bring the only shelter back to Nunavut.

http://www.avivacommunityfund.org/ideas/acf11210

October 1st - First day of winter

It feels like it anyway.  Yesterday felt really cold with our first real snowfall.  It didn't stop, and this is what I wake up to.

Qikiqtarjuaq, NU

I came across this in the paper today and have to say it is quite good.  Its a british comedy routine called 'Cabin Pressure', and in this episode they travel to Qikiqtarjuaq via Toronto to look at polar bears.  I enjoy how they discuss why there is no 'U' after the 'Q'.  Qik is a small hamlet in Nunavut, nearish Toronto.

Worth a listen!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSwkcO8jmWs

Back in Iqaluit

My week home is already over.  Nothing like leaving a 22 and sunny part of the world for a 2 and raining part to welcome you back to work.  But, I am much more prepared for the colder weather now, so I say bring it on.  I Went to MEC and bought the warmest coat they sold.  It's basically a huge sleeping bag with arms.  It's starting to look like I could be up here for the whole winter now so I might as well be prepared for it.  I was thinking of skipping my week home in November but my boss thinks I will need it, based on how busy the next month will be.


Back to the grind now.

Reality

I sometimes forget where I am up here, as this place is so close to normal 99% of the time.  Yesterday I went to work, took a cab to another building for some meetings, had pasta for dinner with the guys I work with.  Went to the gym after work, which is really nice actually, lots of new equipment in.  Walked home, stopped at the store for milk and basics.  Continued walking home, an ATV passed me which was pulling a trailer of very fresh dead seals bleeding all over the road.  Went home and watched some TV and fell asleep on the couch. 

Can you guess which event from above you don't see down south?



anyway, I get to visit home this weekend.  I really hope its not too busy and I get to enjoy not working for at least a few days. 

Suicide in Nunavut

Yesterday marked World Suicide Prevention Day which is probably just another day that goes unnoticed in most places.  Up here, suicide is very serious and a very real problem.  The suicide rate up here is 11 times higher than the rest of the country.  I spend a lot of time in the college and there is an unusual (to me) amount of posters on the subject throughout the halls.

Most people think it’s due to the living conditions up here, which do play a part.  However a bigger part of it is the culture.  I had a conversation with someone for the GN a month ago and apparently 90% of women up here have been sexually abused in their lifetimes.  People put such an emphases on their relationships with each other and sex becomes a tool to control people.  Add to that the isolation and lack of support services outside of your family, which is likely where the problem is coming from, people see suicide as the only escape.   In communities that are only a few hundred people large, who do you turn to.  There is obviously a lack of support, and likely a lack of willingness to trust the support, especially when it means going against your family. 

home soon

well in a week I fly home for a few days.  Im sure it will be a very busy week back, but it will be good to go back to real life even briefly.

A few things on the list to bring back here:

beer
vodka (for Jay, he feeds me at work)
spices
boots
winter jacket
hats, scarfs, anything warm
maybe an ipad or some form of tablet.  Undecided on this
a new book
magazines.  Theres about 4 or 5 publications that make it up here, obviously nothing that I read.
tea (loose leaf doesn't exist up here)



I wish I had more carvings and fun things to bring back with me but I just haven't had the time to go out and shop for that stuff.  Next time.

Winter is here

It's 'frosh week' here at the college, and one of the perks of working for/in the college is I get to take part in some of it.  Last Friday I got to go to an 80s rock tribute concert, something that I imagine is a rare thing in Iqaluit.  It was a small crowd but was a lot of fun actually, the band was really into it.  Nice mix of JonBon and Van Halen. 


It was pouring rain that night and really cold.  The next morning I look out my window and across the bay the once green mountains are completely white.  Looks like a foot of snow.  None here yet accept the odd fluries, but if we were maybe 500 feet higher I bet that rain would have been a blizzard.  Its also feeling very cold all the time now, never getting above 10 degrees.  Going to have to bring up some warmer clothes.

Back in Iqaluit

Made it back in one day from Arviat.  Granted, I flew from Arviat, to Baker Lake, to Rankin Inlet, to Chesterfield Inlet, to Coral Harbour, to Cape Dorset, then finally to Iqaluit to do so, but one day at least.

I wish I had pictures, I promise I will get some, but last night around 10pm I was out and it was a clear night and the northern lights completely covered the sky.  I walked away from the city lights a bit and you could see them more and more.  Sort of like green clouds.  Technically they were southern lights for me, as we are slightly north of the band, but they were pretty close to directly over head. 

More Arviat

My last night in Arviat, assuming my flight goes as planned tomorrow.  Yesterday we took the truck out on the land, but there wasn't too much to see.  A few 'cottages' that are a little more than tents, and endless amounts of lakes.

Lots of snow geese out this time of year.  Pretty much the same as Canadian geese, but they are white.

I also had my taste of caribou, although it wasn't what I was expecting.  It was raw.  I guess it is common to it eat uncooked and frozen, and I was invited to try some at lunch.  Interesting taste.  Don't think I will be wanted more. 


Anyway, a few parting pictures.  I think it was starting to grow on me a bit, good thing I am heading back to Iqaluit!

Arviat

I finally made it into Arviat.  Landing on a gravel runway is a different experience, feels like the plane is going to shake to pieces.

The town is just north of Chuchill Manitoba, on the coast of hudson bay.  Although almost as north as Iqaluit, there are seagulls instead of ravens, long grass and bushes, its warmer, and is very, very flat.

There are no paved roads here, and even more ATVs compared to cars.  The trunk we rented is ready for the landfill, my door handle is a shoe string.  There is talk about building a road from Churchill to Rankin Inlet going through Arviat, and I couldn't imagine what the impact would be on this place if that came through.

Anyway, hopefully get done what I need to do and I can head back to Iqaluit with another over night in Rankin next week.

Massive Airport

Hanging in the school

It was grad night at the school, probably the busiest a parking lot gets in this town.  You can see what I mean about quads...

Rankin Inlet

I am held up in Rankin Inlet for a 2^nd night due to a cancelled flight.  No idea why, thankfully the hotel had my room available still.

Not a lot going on here.  Seems like there are more ATVs than cars here.  I find it odd that someone will wear a helmet while riding, but at the same time have a baby hanging out of their hood.

Im not sure what to write about this place.   A lot of construction companies, a busy airport, and a landfill.  I rather be in Iqaluit.

Anyway, a few pictures.  It rained for a bit, then turned into a beautiful day and I got a quick run in.

out-of-office

Leaving for Arviat in a couple of hours.  I fly to Rankin Inlet on the West side of the Hudson tonight, then hop to Arviat tomorrow afternoon, so I will have a chance to check out the wonderful Rankin.

Yes, I am on first air, but it will be a safe flight and they won't be taking any chances.


I had to ditch some extra clothes to make room for a firewall and wireless controller in my suitcase.  Maybe I will buy a t-shirt at the gift shop when I land ;)

A very sad day up here.  12 people died in a plane crash to resolute today.  Our flights are constantly delayed and cancled due to fog, and it is clear it is for good reason.  With such a small community up here it will have a serious impact on the entire province.  One of the survivors is at the Iqaluit hospital just down the street from me.  

I am getting on a 737 to Arviat tomorrow, so its a little scary to hear this the day before. 


http://www.theglobeandmail.com/news/national/two-survivors-of-nunavut-plane-crash-airlifted-to-ottawa-hospital/article2136407/

On Monday I fly out to Arviat, which is south west from here, in pretty well the exact middle of Canada about 300km north of Churchill.  I will be there for a week moving some of the networks over to the new MAN fiber, and if I am lucky, going caribou hunting.  I am trying to negotiate bringing one of the locals here who said he will take me out with them.  In any case, caribou is the main diet of that area, so I should be able to try it.

It seems the news is nearly country wide, so you can imagine it's the “talk of the town” right now.   A 70 tonne bowhead whale was caught in Iqaluit this week, the first in over 100 years.  At first I didn't realize it was such a historic event, people kept saying “did you hear they caught a bowhead?”.  I was working in the NRI (Nunavut research institute) on Tuesday and the place was empty.   I asked where everyone was and front desk said “out on the bowhead hunt”.  I assumed it was just a normal occurrence.

So its a big week for Iqaluit. Bowhead hunting was banned for a long time due to low numbers, but just recently has been allowed (although still strictly controlled).  With 70 tonnes of whale meat in town, hopefully I can get my hands on some whale soup finally. 

Well I am going on a month up here now.  Still a month before I visit home, but halfway there ;)

Work has been more than nuts.  Don't really remember my last day off and don't see one in the future, but I guess it makes the time go by.  I got thinking of the things I 'miss' the other night, so here is off the top of my head...


High speed internet
F1/tsn
Indian food
wearing shorts
The track
running options
pad thai
the running room
fresh fruit
my magic bullet
blackberry
paved roads



and of course, Veronica...

Carvings

There is no lack of art work up here. They sell them in every gift shop, but all you have to do is sit down to a meal at any restaurant and you will be approached likely a few times with things like carvings, paintings, earrings, and fuzzy little slippers. The prices are usually quite good too. If you have ever looked to buy a soapstone carving in a shop, its about 1/4 the price if you buy it direct. I have picked up a few, sort of holding out for a few particular things.

Yes, it probably gets annoying after a while of constantly being offered things, however they are very polite about it. I see it as just part of the culture. I have heard in some towns they will actually knock on hotel doors, and walk right in if you let them.

I think I have been here too long, as I am starting to recognize people in my day to day life now. Like, every day. Its inevitable in a small town regardless, but this is a small town with no where else to go. There's no city to drive into, you need groceries there is one of two places you are going. You want to eat out there is like 4 options, and that's it. So you are bound to keep running into the same people over and over. Basically forget any ideas of living a private, quiet life up here, because you are part of the town, one big happy family.

On that note, its looking like my stay here may be extended, perhaps right to Christmas. I don't think I want to come back after, as January on Baffin Island sounds....cold. People assure me that winter is the best time to be up here, but I am sure they are just living in denial. -40, average. No, thank you. Oh but it's a dry cold! They are all nuts.

Speaking of Grinnell park


http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/north/story/2011/08/02/iqaluit-polar-bear-sighting-park.html

Sylvia Grinnell Park

On Sunday a co-worker and I took a hike out to Sylvia Grinnell park, just outside of the city. Not a huge place, but is close enough to Iqaluit that you can hike out and back in a couple of hours. We will definitely be taking another trip out.

I feel a little out of place when I go for a run here. I get a bit of “what the hell is that guy doing” look from some of the locals. Or a “why are his pants so short?”.  In any case, I am sure it is a good way to make it obvious that I am new here.

Obviously there is nothing wrong with the sport of running, I just don't think people do it here. For starters, the hills are brutal, and is a good way to kill any new runner's ambition. Second, there are no sports stores, much less a running store, so you are either buying shoes/clothes online, or what you can find at the North Mart. Third, and the one that I hate, is there is no where TO run! With no sidewalks you are running on dirt, gravel, or sharing the small amount of paved roads with cars. I would guess there are less than 20km total of roads, so you run out of variety pretty quick. Oh yeah, did I mention there is snow on the ground 8 months of the year? I've run in -20s before, but it isn't something I look forward to.

That said, I still love running here. The hills are good for me, and the low altitude makes me feel more fit than I really am. There is a Terry Fox run here in September that I am going to make a point of going to.

As of today I have been up here for 2 weeks. Seems like I just got here still, but at the same time I am starting to settle in.  

I didn't realize that 'pop' had an expiry date. I had two diet cokes that were a few months past their date, and I guess its the aspartame that goes, and it looses its sweetness. What happens is you have places buying in bulk (due to shipping costs), and then sitting for a very long time. I am used to checking the date on bread and milk, but I suppose I need to start checking it on everything I buy now.

I was at the liquor warehouse today and found out why I can't seem to find a heineken anywhere in town.  Apparently the EU does not approve of the seal hunt here, and has banned the export of goods.  So no dutch/german beer for me.

Apex

Yesterday one of my partners in crime and I went to track down a building in the town of Apex. Its part of Iqaluit really, maybe 2km outside of town, and is a group of about 30 houses and a school. The trip included a bit of off-roading with the rental down to a beach to take a few pictures.

Windy city

Everything here seems to be a trade off.  The wind kicks up dust into your face, but then keeps the mosquitoes away.  Summer is warm enough to actually go outside, but the dust or bugs keep you in.  We have had amazing weather this weekend, sun and just below 20 degrees out, but the wind has been very strong picking up all the sand.  I guess its the Canadian way to always have something to complain about.

We found a place that served Chinese food and tried it for lunch today.  I guess you could call it 'the best in town', as its the only.  Lets just say I miss having options.

Around town

Figured I would try and get a few more pictures uploaded.  For what it is, Iqaluit is actually a very pretty city.  I will post separately on the architecture, as it is worth of a mention on its own.


Over looking the bay

High tide

Low tide.  Almost a full km from the shore it seems, the 2nd biggest tide in North America

The provincial flower, the purple saxifrage.  Some of the hills are covered in these.

Long day light means long sun sets.